'Definitely been an upswing': Manitoba growers cash in on mushroom mania

The humble mushroom has cracked a number of 2022 food trend lists, with the New York Times calling it the ingredient of the year.

Thanks to their variety and versatility, mushrooms are popping up outside of the produce section, in coffee, broths, and supplements.

Mushroom producers on this side of the border say Manitobans are also buying into fungi fever.

"There's definitely been an upswing in people being interested in knowing at least a little bit about them and wanting to try them in cooking,” said Daniel Purpur, owner of Purps Produce.

Purpur started an urban farm growing a variety of vegetables about six years ago, but found the market oversaturated with other growers.

However, he saw an opportunity in specialty mushrooms.

"I learned that mushrooms had a very niche, special market with not a lot of growers around, but growing mushrooms is actually quite doable, but a little different than just planting a seed in the ground,” he said.

He now sells his oyster, lion’s mane and chestnut mushrooms to local restaurants, at farmers’ markets and online. He also offers home-growing kits for those looking to try their hand at growing the fungi.

"There are so many reasons why mushrooms are getting more popular, whether it's the texture, the flavour, the health benefits, their role in the ecosystem,” he said.

According to Manitoba Agriculture, our province only takes a small bite out of the national mushroom market, with Ontario and B.C. accounting for over 90 per cent of production.

Loveday Mushroom Farms, a pioneer in Manitoba's mushroom industry since 1932, accounts for most of the province’s mushroom production.

“If you look at 2021 data, the total square footage of area that was in production in mushrooms in Manitoba is just under 195,000 square feet. The majority of that would be through Loveday,” said Tom Gonsalves, a vegetable crop specialist with Manitoba Agriculture.

And now, independent growers are also getting a taste of mushroom mania.

"They have specialty mushrooms to sell, and I think that is causing a higher profile to the clientele that frequent farmers’ markets,” said Gonsalves.

Aside from the taste and variety, mushrooms have noted health benefits. Consumer Reports health editor Trisha Calvo said edible mushrooms can pack a nutritional punch.

"Mushrooms can be great sources of potassium, selenium and antioxidants. Plus, they provide some fibre and some types are rich in vitamin D,” she said.

As for claims that mushrooms have medicinal properties to treat everything from anxiety to cancer, Calvo said more research is needed.

"There's been some preliminary research to support some of these claims, but what works in the lab or in mice doesn't always apply to humans. More studies are needed,” she said.